Tag Archives: bmw e30

BMW poly and delrin transmission bushings – E30, E36, E46, E21, E39

GARAGISTIC E30 Polyurethane/Delrin transmission bushings

Today we’re going to talk about Garagistic transmission bushings. Now these are our poly and derlin units. They can be found on virtually every BMW. They are all the same so your e30, your e36, e46, e90, e92s, f-series, all of them actually take the same transmission bushing. Even e21s got these so this is actually virtually compatible with almost every BMW made to an extent. Ask us, if you have any questions about that. Whether you should go with poly or delrin transmission bushings really depends the primary application of your car.

They are available in our 3 different durometers. You’ve got your 80 series which is your soft poly. You’ve got your 95, your hard poly and then your derlin. Now, you’re going to want to be careful which durometer you pick on your transmission as well as your differential because these are the only two bushings that will transmit a lot of noise. You will hear the transmission line with these kind of parts that are not factory like these.


TAKE YOUR PICK OF GARAGISTIC TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS

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BMW E30 E36 E46 E90 DELRIN        TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS

 


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E30, E36 AND Z3 DELRIN OFFSET FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS

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BMW 80A POLYURETHANE TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS

Your differential will make a noise and your transmission will make these noises as well. This is a bolt-through design so it’s meant to basically be a fail-safe. This bushing will basically never leave your transmission. It’s not isolated so it does inherently transmit a little more noise. Your 80 being the most bearable and your derlin being your full-on race application.

This is a very common neglected part on e30s, e36s, e46s. You’ll often see transmission bushing sagging and ripped and torn. Sometimes we’ve seen cars where they are disconnected in half, especially under track duty and drifting and stuff like that. Basically, these are our transmission bushings. If you have any questions about whether they are compatible with your BMW, please feel free to give us an email. They can be found on our online store at garagistic.com. They can also be found on our Garagistic app. The app if you don’t already have it is a great download. It’s a good way to get deals, flash sales, instructions so definitely take some time to download to app. As with all our poly stuff and almost all the things that we make, there’s a lifetime warranty so you can always rest assured you’ve got the Garagistic guarantee that that you got a perfect product every single time. Garagistic transmission bushings, just like all Garagistic bushings, are 100% USA made with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.



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Garagistic: E30 rear trailing arm bushings

GARAGISTIC:
E30 rear trailing arm bushings


E30 rear trailing arm bushings; What are they and why do you need them? Today we’re talking all about Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings, specifically for your E30, your Z3, your 2002, your M Coupe, they all take the same rear trailing arm bushing, which would be similar to this one. It basically replaces the OEM part number 33329061945.

Basically what we got here is the flavors that we usually do all of our poly bushings kit in. You’ve got your 80, you got your 95, and you got your Derlin. Derlin being your all out race application. 95 being a little bit of dual purpose, you know a little bit more, emphasizing a little bit more performance than comfort. Then you’ve got your 80, which is basically your auto cross comfort. It’s a great street application. Often after these age these bushings are incredibly worn out and it’s time to replace them. Even when they’re brand new they don’t inherently have this lip on there, so they tend to kind of have a little bit of play anyway just because they’re actually meant to move a little bit to give you a little bit more comfort in your BMW.

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                                 Garagistic polyurethane bushings

 

For track enthusiasts that tends to be not what their main priority is, it’s basically the best handling possible. These definitely give that edge. It’s great for track, auto cross, drift. Even your street cars though, they can definitely benefit from the rear trailing arm bushings. Now this will also fit various other BMW’s like the 1602, 2002, E21, E12’s, E30’s, you know 318ti, the Z3 otherwise known as the angry shoe, it can benefit from having these kind of rear trailing arm bushings on there. Garagistic E30 rear trailing arm bushings are made right here in the USA. We also offer a lifetime warranty on all E30 rear trailing arm bushings.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.

Where to get Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings:

BMW SOLID DELRIN REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/BMW-E30-…

BMW 80A POLYURETHANE REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/80a-e30-…

BMW 95A POLYURETHANE REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/95a-e30-…


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Why upgrade your E28, E30, and E36 brake lines to stainless steel?

UPGRADING YOUR E28,E30,E36 STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES


The upgrade that keeps on giving.

QUESTION: “Are stainless steel brake lines worth it?”

ANSWER: Only those who have driven a car with them know how truly worth it they are.


Today were going to talk about brake lines, stainless steel brake lines to be exact. Now we carry stainless steel brake lines for your E30, your E28, your E36. We got your other models coming soon like your E46. Upgrading to stainless steel brake lines is a great upgrade.
Usually your stock rubber lines, even when they’re brand new and in good shape, they expand and that can change pedal feel. Stainless steel brake lines you pretty much replaced them and you’ll never have to replace them again. They’re not like other lines. They don’t crack, they don’t break. They offer good pedal feel, a lot firmer pedal feel. A little bit more confidence inspiring braking. It’s definitely a good item to do, and it’s a safety item.
It’s something you should look as soon as you buy your E30, your E28, your E36. It’s something you should look at inspecting the brakes. Now, most commonly a kit like this … This is a E30 kit. It comes with a different amount of lines here. Then you got your front, you got your two front lines. Then you got your two lines that run above your sub-frame, and then your two lines that run to your rear calipers. This installation shouldn’t take too long you. The longest part of process is probably bleeding the brakes.
Other than that it’s probably a 30-45 minutes job, depending on if you have a lift or if you have jack-stands. It really depends. The hardest brake lines to replace on this would be the ones that are above the sub-frame, just because of physically reaching them. Other than that this is not a hard job. It requires some basic tools, some basic break knowledge. With all of our Garagistic products, there’s a lifetime warranty on our brake lines.

It’s something you should definitely look into. Having a failed brake line or failed breaks in general, especially if you’re auto-crossing or you’re tracking, anything really, even on the street. It could be a very dangerous thing, so be sure to check them out you. You can be found on our Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.


WHERE TO GET BMW STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES:


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Garagistic: How to swap an E30 Front Subframe

Garagistic:
How to swap an E30 Front Subframe


The time has come, you have finally decided to reinforce your E30 front subframe; it’s not as hard as you might think!
Our friends at Salt City Euro’s show you how to get it done with the Garagistic reinforced E30 subframe!
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This is one of the most important modifications you should make if you’re driving your car hard or adding more power. The Garagistic reinforced subframe arrives freshly powder coated and includes welded tabs that make the sway bar and engine mounts much stronger. This is necessary to prevent breaking the subframe. This is a stock subframe that was used with a S50 motor. You can purchase  a reinforced subframe over at the Garagistic website.

There are multiple ways to complete this job, which will also depend on the configuration of your car. For example, we have no power steering, but we do have a 24 valve oil pan which prevents us from removing the steering rack on the car, as you could on an E30 with an M20 or M42. We won’t mention the power steering system again. You are on your own with that. Use this as a general guide.

We’re using an engine support bar to suspend the engine properly since we’ll be removing everything that is holding the engine in place. To complete this job you will need the following tools: the jack and jack stands, an engine support bar, a wrench with 13, 16, 17, and 19 mm sockets, and a ball joint removal tool. We also needed a small pry bar. Start by loosening your lug bolts and securing the car on jack stands. We then removed the wheels and loosened the control arm and tie rod end bolts. You’ll need a 19mm socket for the control arm and a 17mm socket for the steering rack tie rod ends. We’re using a basic ball joint tool to remove the ball joints. Before attempting to remove the ball joints, make sure you leave the nut flush with the threads of the ball joint. This will give you a larger surface to work with and protect your threads. Don’t be afraid to apply a lot of pressure, it takes quite a bit to pop those ball joints out.

Next, remove the two 17mm bolts holding the control arm bushings in place. You may have to carefully pry them off the car’s chassis. Remove the lower nuts holding the motor mounts in place. Disconnect your steering shaft from the steering rack. We are showing this on another car so you can clearly see it. Normally the engine would block the view. At this point you can carefully raise your engine to take all the weight off the motor mounts. We also used the jack with a 2×4 for extra safety. Once you’ve loosened and removed the four 17mm bolts holding the subframe in place, carefully lower the subframe. At this point it is time to disassemble your subframe assembly. Remove the steering rack, sway bar, and control arms, then transfer the steering rack to your new subframe.

It’s time to reinstall the e30 subframe on your car. This is much easier with the help of a friend. Align and reinstall your control arms. A small tip: if the ball joint is spinning and does not want to tighten, you can use a jack to press the joint into the knuckle. Reinstall your sway bar and tighten to spec. Finally, remember to tighten and torque your motor mounts to spec.
Congratulations.

You’ve successfully swapped the subframe on your E30. This job is time consuming and may require two people at times. We estimate that it takes 2 to 4 hours to complete depending on skill.

On a scale of 1 to 10, we’d give this job a 5, with 1 being a wheel change and 10 being a full top to bottom engine rebuild.

All Garagistic E30 Front Subframe reinforcements are made in house here in the USA.


Our friends at Salt City Euro’s show you how to get your Garagistic E30 Subframe done!

 

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So you want to know more about e30 Polyurethane Bushings?

80A

95A

Blue

Red, Green

Orange, Yellow Purple – Is there a difference? Which one is harder? What does the color mean? But I’m just looking for a slightly sportier feel. Is Urethane the same as Polyurethane? All of these questions, and more, will be answered.

What does it all mean?

I’ll save you the suspense – Urethane IS Polyurethane, just in a different form. And color means nothing in terms of performance. Some suppliers use a signature color to represent their company. Some companies don’t care what color is used. And some companies use colors to differentiate batches due to a slightly altered methodology of production or in other terms, a ‘date code’ identifier.

Yes, 95A is indeed harder than 80a and will give a sportier feel in the application of suspension and drivetrains. More on that later. But because 95A is harder than 80A, it is much more easily machineable (turning, facing, drilling, boring…etc). But why is it actually harder or softer?  For all intents and purposes, Urethane is the same as Polyurethane. Urethane is the monomer (ethyl carbamate). Basically, polyurethane is a long chain of urethane molecules, and they are bonded front to back, front to back, and so on….

The answer at a high level is: Isocyanates*, Polyols, and Crosslinking. Flexibility is attributed to the polyol, which is a soft, elastic polymer and its reaction with the Isocyanates (averaging 2 or more groups per molecule).

The theory is that high amounts of crosslinking within short chains combined with lower molecular weight polyols give tough or rigid polymers. Conversely, long chains, low crosslinking, and a higher molecular weight polyol give a polymer that is very stretchy.

Polyurethane crosslinking allows the polymer to be a three-dimensional network. As a result, the overall molecular weight is very high and allows polyurethanes the property of not softening up when heated, aka ‘thermosetting polymers’.

Polyurethane was invented during the WWII era by the German Otto BayerProfessor, Dr. Otto Bayer (1902-1982), known as the “father” of the poly industry. From there, polyurethanes can be found in adhesives, coatings, foams and finally flexible foams in the late 50’s. Today, you can see polyurethanes in virtually anything, including structural moldings for anything you see. Footwear, appliance, home, garage…etc. This is all great, but here we’re going to discuss how polyurethanes have shaped our automotive aftermarket culture for use specifically in swapped BMW’s.

Durometer (more commonly known as ‘Shore’) is nothing more than a measure of hardness. And within that, there are several different scales. Most common is the ASTM D2240 Type A for polyurethanes. Hence the “A” at the end of the number. (examples: 70A, 80A, 95A). Scale is from 0 to 100. The higher the number, the harder the polyurethane. A calibrated instrument is used to provide a very specific force to a poly of certain dimensions, creating an indentation in the material. The machine holds its indented force in the poly for 15 seconds, then is released. Immediately thereafter, the indentation is measured for depth. For shore “A”, a hardness range of 100-0 is proportional to the depth of (0.0” – 0.1”+). Aka, no indentation, the harder the material and therefore a durometer of 100 is assigned. Durometer is a dimensionless quantity. And because of that, there are many scales depending on the standard that’s used and the best scale is chosen based on the properties of the polyurethane. Here is a quick scale below of the durometer and the scale used for various materials. Again, most if not all automotive applications deal with shore, or scale “A”.

Mcmaster

Now that you know about the history of polyurethane, how it works, and how it’s measured hardness works, how about common-day applications.

You don’t always need 95A all around or 80A all round on your e30. Sometimes it’s critical to have harder poly on some areas of your e30 while softer on others. Factory e30 rubber mounts for most applications, including oil filled motor mounts are in the 60A-65A range. That’s pretty soft, but to give you comparison compared to stock, see below.

60-65A – Stock e30

70A – 25% stiffer

80A – 30-35% stiffer

95A – 75-80% stiffer

While the 60A-65A bushings do result in a lot of engine movement, especially during hard acceleration, the benefit is a comfortable driving experience and less noise transmission through your e30. M20 80a

For that perfect balance, I recommend Garagistic’s 80a e30 mounts.

 

Just a quick list of the benefits of Polyurethane bushings over stock e30 rubber.

  1. It allows your e30s suspension to react quicker to changes in road conditions, quicker steering, more responsive and receptive to your inputs as the driver. As a result, the power lost in the soft bushings is actually going right to your wheels!!
  2. Polyurethane is easy to install, no presses or special tools needed!
  3. Polyurethane outlasts rubber bushings. In most applications, it will last the life of your daily road driven e30!
  4. You can get custom offset fitment for race applications to help with wheel alignment, ride height…etc.

Want to go delrin on your e30? or even crazier and get solid bushings? Not a problem, only it is. If you daily drive your E30 and want to go delrin or solid, the ancillary setback is that the E30 chassis itself is not particularly designed for this type of vibration from the drivetrain and the roads. And because of that, things happen. Connectors dislodge, pins and electrical connections come loose, screws slowly back out and some bolts loosen up. For a car manufacturer to design to those strict requirements of solid mounted bushings, the car would look like a tank. You can use delrin or even a solid mounted configuration, but just beware of the long term consequences  on your e30 due to daily driving around town.

What else does Garagistic offer?

Well, a ton! E30, E36, and now even E46!!

Poly part1Poly part2

Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more posts. At least 2 new posts per week, with one of them guaranteed to be dedicated to the ongoing E30-LS1 project!!

* Recent efforts are attempting to minimize the use of isocyanates to synthesize polyurethanes, because the isocyanates raise severe toxicity issues. Non-isocyanate based polyurethanes (NIPUs) are in the works as a new class of polyurethane to alleviate environmental concerns.

Thanks to wikedia, McMaster for the information