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DIY Garagistic Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines Installation

  DIY Garagistic Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines Installation 

Welcome to another episode of Salt City Euros. Today, we’re going to installing stainless steel brake lines from Garagistic.

When replacing your brake lines, you obviously need your stainless steel brake lines, need a set of wrenches with specific wrenches to brake lines, so we have an 11, a 14, and then we have a 15 regular wrench. You need your new brake fluid, and then you need a catch can so you can drain your old brake fluid into. Now some of you may be wondering why DOT 3, why DOT 4. The core difference between the two is that DOT 4 has a higher boiling point, so actually most BMWs require DOT 4 fluid, including the e30. You can see that on your brake fluid reservoir. So especially in applications like this particular vehicle that we will be taking to the track a lot, you want to make sure that you have higher boiling brake fluid. If you ever experience brake fade, which means that you boiled your brake fluid, you definitely want to replace it right away, otherwise the regular maintenance cycle of brake fluid is about three years.

Replacing brake lines is a very straightforward task. Be very careful when dealing with dirty or old brake line fittings. Use special brake line wrenches, 11 and 14 millimeters in this case, to avoid rounding off any of the fittings. When removing the lines, brake fluid may spill, so be very careful and catch any excess with shop rags. Wipe up any spills as soon as possible. The fitting at your brake line caliper should also be a 14 millimeter fitting.

So there are many reasons why people do stainless steel brake lines; some claim it gives you a better pedal feel. In our case specifically, our brake lines are in very bad shape, so we wanted to replace them anyways, and we figured why not add some good brake feel at the same time. So, you can see here that this brake line has rubbed, or has been rubbed through, in multiple spots, which can be a little bit sketchy. Then on top of that, it’s actually started to break on the end here, so these are definitely due for a replacement.

Hand tighten your new brake lines into the caliper, and then tighten them according to the torque specs for your specific application. For our e30, it’s 14 to 17 meters. Do the same for your brake line and hard line fitting, again, using your special brake line wrenches.



The rear lines of an e30 have two soft brake lines that will be replaced. One of these is tucked above the subframe and near the rear trailing arm mounts. This line will drip a lot of brake fluid, so again, be ready to catch as much as possible with shop rags. Same concept applies here. Hand tighten, and then torque to spec. It is extremely important to hand tighten as far as possible, because cross-threading a break line fitting would be disastrous. It would require costly and time consuming repairs to the brake lines, or potentially even require you to replace the entire hard line, so make sure you take your time with this install. Do not over tighten any of these fittings, either.

The last line is located above your hub assembly and is quite short, but all the same concepts apply.

Time to take a step back and admire your newly installed stainless steel brake lines. Our Garagistic lines boast a beautiful red look that works very well with our KONI shocks and Eibach springs.

The final step of the install is to bleed your entire brake system. Make sure you always have enough brake fluid in your reservoir while bleeding, and start with the brake caliper that is the furthest away from your master cylinder. In our case, it’s the rear passenger side, and then the driver rear, and then the front passenger, and lastly, your driver side caliper. Have a friend pump the brake pedal, and then crack open the bleeder nipple on the brake caliper you’re bleeding. Close the nipple to avoid sucking in any air bubbles, and repeat until no more air bubbles come out of the caliper.

If you need further instructions, there are many great videos, but we’re not going to go into great detail on this particular DIY.

All right, guys. That’s all there is to it. It’s not a very difficult job, but if you don’t feel comfortable doing it, please make sure you get a professional to help you or do it for you. Brakes are obviously very important, so make sure you stay safe. Hope you guys enjoy the video. Please Like if you did. Share, subscribe, make sure you do all that good stuff, and check the parts in the description, and hopefully we’ll see you guys next time.


Whats the big deal about the bmw clutch fork pivot – 21511223328?

Dont let this little part fool you! These Clutch Fork Pivot Pin – 21511223328 bushings should be changed anytime the clutch fork or release bearing is removed. These units have improved durability and with ensure smooth, squeak-free shifts. Having this part in hand when your doing any job that requires the dropping of the transmission will save you time and hassle later on.

BMW Clutch Fork Pivot Pin - 21511223328
BMW Clutch Fork Pivot Pin – 21511223328

Symptoms can include “clutch doesn’t quite feel like it should” or maybe the the “release point is a little bit off”. The reason for that, in some of the cases, is the clutch pivot pin inside the bell housing in the transmission is worn out.
A stock clutch pivot pin with a high performance clutch can show seroius wear in as little as 7,000 miles. There can be significant wear on the tip of this pivot pin making it quite a bit shorter than this brand new factory pivot pin that we sell here.
The price of this pin is very small , but can become expensive because there’s a lot of time involved in pulling the transmission all the way out of the car.
A great upgrade can be a silicon bronze replica of the part. A clutch pivot pin made out of silicon bronze, is far superior material compared to the plastic that the original one is made out of.
The clutch fork can also wear, at the location that the pivot pin rubs. So its always a good idea to replace the fork as well.
Replacement couldn’t be any easier once everything is taken out of the car (which includes the transmission). The factory pivot pin is just simply pushed in to the bell housing and held on with a spring.

You can find replacement bmw clutch pivot points here


BMW poly and delrin transmission bushings – E30, E36, E46, E21, E39

GARAGISTIC E30 Polyurethane/Delrin transmission bushings

Today we’re going to talk about Garagistic transmission bushings. Now these are our poly and derlin units. They can be found on virtually every BMW. They are all the same so your e30, your e36, e46, e90, e92s, f-series, all of them actually take the same transmission bushing. Even e21s got these so this is actually virtually compatible with almost every BMW made to an extent. Ask us, if you have any questions about that. Whether you should go with poly or delrin transmission bushings really depends the primary application of your car.

They are available in our 3 different durometers. You’ve got your 80 series which is your soft poly. You’ve got your 95, your hard poly and then your derlin. Now, you’re going to want to be careful which durometer you pick on your transmission as well as your differential because these are the only two bushings that will transmit a lot of noise. You will hear the transmission line with these kind of parts that are not factory like these.






Your differential will make a noise and your transmission will make these noises as well. This is a bolt-through design so it’s meant to basically be a fail-safe. This bushing will basically never leave your transmission. It’s not isolated so it does inherently transmit a little more noise. Your 80 being the most bearable and your derlin being your full-on race application.

This is a very common neglected part on e30s, e36s, e46s. You’ll often see transmission bushing sagging and ripped and torn. Sometimes we’ve seen cars where they are disconnected in half, especially under track duty and drifting and stuff like that. Basically, these are our transmission bushings. If you have any questions about whether they are compatible with your BMW, please feel free to give us an email. They can be found on our online store at They can also be found on our Garagistic app. The app if you don’t already have it is a great download. It’s a good way to get deals, flash sales, instructions so definitely take some time to download to app. As with all our poly stuff and almost all the things that we make, there’s a lifetime warranty so you can always rest assured you’ve got the Garagistic guarantee that that you got a perfect product every single time. Garagistic transmission bushings, just like all Garagistic bushings, are 100% USA made with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.



Upgrading to Poly/Delrin E30, z3 318ti diff bushings!


Today were going to talk about poly and Delrin differential bushings for your E30, your, E36ti’s, yours Z3’s. They all compatible.

They all take the same some the sub-frame bushings. They all take the same sub-frames pretty much, theoretically speaking, and the same diff bushing. Today here we got all of our diff bushings that we offer. It’s a Delrin version, which is basically for all-out race guys. It’s good for track application, if you really don’t want that diff to move, Delrin the one for you. It will transmit a little bit more noise, being that it is solid plastic basically.

Then you got your 80-Series, which is the softest poly available. It’s a happy street-friendly durometer hardness. It doesn’t transmit as much noise obviously as the Delrin, being that it will absorb a lot of the noise.  It’s really good for autocross, occasional track days, it’s just an all around good bushing. Then you got your 95 which is the hardest poly available. This is the one that we like, it’s the happy medium. It will transmit a ton, a little bit more noise than the 80 but not quite as much as the Delrin. They all basically have the same geometry, they’re solid bushing. As you can see, there is no holes like the factory bushing. The factory bushing have only is connected two or three points, and it was made for comfort, it was design for comfort. Even when you’re going with the softest poly it’s going to be a great upgrade over your stock bushing because it’s attached physically in more area. BMW-POLY-DELRIN-DIFFERENTIALDIFF-BUSHING-BMw-E30-E36-318TI-Z3

They all have a lifetime warranty,all made in USA, here in Westminster California. It’s meant to replace part number 331 71 135242 and that basically is found in E30s, Z3s and E36ti’s, even your 325iIX’s take the same differential bushing, so it’s also compatible with that. Now this will … it’s something that will add responsiveness, it’s going to limit differential movement.   A failed if bushing basically sounds like an ape trying to escape from your trunk. There’s usually thump, there’s things going on in the trunk. Usually when you put it in gear, stuff like that, you’re going to hear a bang thump something. Monkey’s trying to get out, usually it’s a because the differential bushing is gone, it’s literally not connected anymore.    Installation is simple you will need a press because it does get pressed into your factory differential cover. It’s compatible with M Coupe covers, so even if you’re running on your E30 the upgraded differential cover from the M Coupe or even your E36 or 318ti E36 unit, they’ll accept the M Coupe cover, this will fit it. It’s a great upgrade, very low-cost.  It’s a maintenance thing. These things are are quite old now and it’s usually time to replace them. Now this is kind of a while you’re at it thing. If you guys who put in LS1’s, the M60’s, S54 the big motors putting in a little more power. While you look at your differential it’s probably a good idea to look at our secondary diff mount.

This is one of the piece of the components, but basically what this does is it adds a second ear to your differential. Basically this came in later 36’s and stuff like that. BMW basically realized that they should have two years on the differentials. E30s obviously didn’t, they had one ear. This is a great upgrade, very low budget compared to the damage that could occur to your differential.  It obviously will require another differential bushing and it will also accept a stock differential bushing. That’s also a good upgrade. Hopefully this made your understanding of E30 diff bushings a little bit better. These Garagistic Poly/Delrin E30, z3 318ti diff bushings are made right here in the USA and come with a lifetime warranty.

You can also check out on our app and our website. If you have any questions, please feel free to drop us a line or visit us at our website.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.





Project Ares – Pandem (rocket bunny) supercharged LS1 E30

So on to the exterior of the E30 ls1 car we named Ares. Being that the Car will have a supercharged LS1, we wanted this car to be functional. Very functional. No air ride and lots of tire to put down the power with. So we though, we should go widebody! Then we picked the wrong widebody kit……

We picked the Pandem E30 body kit. Why? Because we thought it looked really cool, gave us the ability to run some wide wheel, and there wasnt too many of them around. Little did we know, that this kit is not meant to be functional at all. After getting the kit, we realized, this kit was meant for a car that was going to be parked on air at shows, not put fast lap times down at the track. Every builder who has used this kit on an e30 used it with air suspension for a reason. The wheel arches on this body kit are incredibly high. Meaning cutting the car very very very high. No big deal right?  Ever notice how none of the E30s with the pandem kit have their wheels turned when they are slammed? Yea, thats because they cant turn at that ride height. It would touch the body kit. Thats why the wheels are always straight in the pictures.

So we made a mistake. What were we going to do with this very expensive body kit or the custom wheels made for this car? Cut up the body kit? Not with a price tag that it had.  However, with some serious chasis modification and creative thinking we came up with a solution.

The first thing we had to do was cut the rear wheel arches. Very high. There was no going back now. It was like performing surgury and making sure there was enough “skin” to sow it back togther. We cut the outer skin and left the inner skin to use it to close up the new fender gap.

The front was a little trickier. After realizing that the car wont be able to turn with 9.5 in wheels because it touched EVERYTHING. At the ride height the Pandem kit was expected to “look” right at, it would rub on the inner fender seem. So we cut it out and welded it shut. On turning it touched the wheel well corners (inside cabin). We  had to cut a massive section out to get it to turn lock to lock. On the front the corner of the engine bay had to go for the same reason.

Now being that the car was going to be so low to the ground, we  would also need to make the whole front end removable very quickly. This would make it loading onto the trailer to get to track events/shows/etc a little easier. Its not like we could just air up the car at will. The car has a functional coilover system all the way around compliments of ground control. This includes true rear coilover rear setup like the old DTM cars had. We did mention we picked the wrong body kit right? We will explain how we made the front end removable here.

All LS1 parts can be found at the Garagistic Store.

Project ares – E30 diffuser system and spare wheel well delete

We wanted to experiment with the aero on Ares. So the trunk wheel well had to go. We made a delete panel and removed the spare wheel well because the new diffuser system would then occupy the space that it use to be in.

So we made a delete panel and modified it from our production version by adding a quick release system. This would give us an panel to be able to check on the differential and some rear suspension components when we needed to without needing the remove the diffuser setup.

We want the diffuser system to run most of the length of the car. There would be a cut out for our M coupe diff cover to stick out from so it can do what it does best. Cool the diff.

That meant that the exhaust would need to go somewhere else. We didnt like the idea of a side dump (and we didn’t want to kit our Pandem kit). So we decided to have a similar look to the DTM E30 cars and run it through the trunk. Why not?

It runs through the spare wheel well delete and on either side of where the licence plate would go. It would be tucked away so it couldn’t get damaged and at the same time away from our diffuser setup. We then welded up the stock cutout panel because it would no longer be used.

For all E30 LS1 parts visit us at Garagistic!

Project Ares – E30 removable front end

The car was meant to be low. Very low. Very very low.  And ride height was static via ground control coil-overs. That made the front valence very low. And we wanted to keep that way because we had some aero mods in store including a fully functional diffuser system. So what do we do? Loading it onto trailers would be an unthinkable task. We made the front end removable.

We did this buy buying an OEM late model front valence and cutting it up. Yup. A brand new valence. We did this because it had to be perfectly straight. We practiced with a questionable unit and we knew what we had to do to make it removable. We had to make the OEM piece into 2 pieces. An upper half and a lower half. We would then make sure the upper piece stayed on the car as the original engineers had intended. But the lower half would come off with the bumper.

We used the 2 stock bolt locations to run pins to be able to pull on to remove the bumper setup and the lower half of the valence in a couple seconds.

That pair with the e30 removable core support, we would be able to service the car in a hurry if we needed to.

Project Areas – E30 LS1 Throttle cable setup

For the Ares, we used a universal Loctar Cable and cable mount. The mount then mounts to the Intake manifold. On the pedal side, we used stock e30 pedal and pedal lever. The lever hit the boosterless brake setup so we had to shorten it. We then added a few holes to be able to accommodate different motors we make test in the future to bring to the market. Remember, the theme with this car is modular.

So after that the loktar cable fits through the stock E30 throttle firewall hole. The firewall hole isnt really a hole though. Its a square. No big deal! We welded a washer to make it round. This made the cable fit perfectly.

Pictures coming soon!

Day 4 – 10 Day Build – E21 S54

Today was monumental. Got a whole lot done in 4hours!

Because the E30 parking brake cable did not fit into the E21 tunnel, I simply tacked it together. I’ll paint it later.


I welded the radiator mounts. Will be painted later. img_5101

So day 4 I got the S54 in the car. Lifted it by traditional means with a hoist. It wasn’t all that bad getting it in. I needed to cut the front radiator shroud area to get it fit. Please note that this is NOT the final resting place. it will get pushed back at least another 4-5 inches.

Below, I installed the front half of the driveshaft. I already got the rear half in and aligned to the E30 subframe. That already defined the center bearing location as shown in Day 2. Now that it’s sitting suspended as shown, I can place the engine and mate it to the driveshaft. Once mated, the engine is now in place.


It took no more than 45 minutes to get the engine in. It’s sitting much further forward than I’d like (aka the driveshaft and transmission are way off and the engine needs to sit further back).



As of today, the S54 is sitting on the subframe, unobstructed and the trans bracket is installed, but will need to move much further rearward to mate to the driveshaft.

I didn’t do too much with the subframe. Just grinded it down, but no welding today. Stay tuned for tomorrow! Garagistic has some pretty sweet 80A mounts that I plan to use that will allow it to sit exactly where it will live with minimal movement and minimal vibration transfer. img_5116

Got the exhaust setup ready to go. Days 6-8 will be reserved for welding of the downpipes, the muffler, and the midpipes. img_5113

I welded the exhaust hangers up a bit better today. I welded lips on the exhaust stem so that the hanger sits right in the center and doesn’t move side to side on harder cornering.


I also welded studs for the rear subframe lower poly hold-down brackets. I did this because the E30 subframe is wider and the subframe was actually hitting the bracket weld-nuts. So I removed the weld nuts from the brackets, I welded studs from the inside flush, and will now bolt the bracket on the OUTSIDE of the body. The only thing I need to do is elongate the subframe bolt.

Removed weld nuts in this pic…


Welded studs (countersink screws) from the backside pointing outward. img_5105

I need to clean these welds up, but the idea is that now the E30 subframe will not hit the body due to it being wider than the E21 subframe. img_5104

Thanks for reading. Standby for more work tomorrow as we set this drivetrain in it’s final resting spot!

Day 3 – 10 Day Build – E21 S54

Day 3, primarily reserved for Exhaust, Suspension, and radiator mounting.

Fuel filter stuff removed. I am going to a walbro 255 external pump for this assembly. I’m sticking with the same fuel filter (new), and fuel accumulator to keep fuel pressure up on starts.    img_5090


Front hubs cleaned up, installing new bearings and races. Then install onto GC struts.  img_5083

Mounted the E46 M3 exhaust – Had to cut out some of the piping to fit. I didn’t want to do a completely custom exhaust system, but it looks like that’s what may happen. Everything is custom.

Thus far, I’m going with 2 mounts for the muffler assembly itself. Then after I start welding the mid pipe, I’ll be adding a 3rd one in the same vicinity.

The top of the muffler is just at the top of the spare wheel well I cut out. Might need to figure out a new method of capping the wheel well. img_5065img_5088 img_5067

I decided to use the new exhaust cut outs to plug the old exhaust outlet. I maintain the same curvature, bend, and character line, so it’s seamless. img_5082


For now, I’d like to simply add weather stripping, but in the future outlook, we’ve got some cool Ares LS1 ideas for this exhaust.

The radiator mounting is being prototyped, but at the moment this works very well. Used some M12 bolts, 19mm head actually fits these poly bushings perfectly. img_5074

Clamp the bolts down – to be welded later. img_5076

Bushings slip right on top. Square off the head of the poly bushing so it accompanies the radiator and it’s not moving anywhere!img_5078img_5079

Out with the old!img_5080

In with the new, Let’s get that S54 in tomorrow!