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GARAGISTIC E30, E36, AND Z3 POWER STEERING DELETE BLOCK INSTRUCTIONS:

GARAGISTIC E30 POWER STEERING DELETE BLOCK INSTRUCTIONS:


A common modification on BMW E30, Z3, and E36’s are the infamous power steering delete blocks.  This modification offers a more responsive feel for your bemmer which translates for a more accurate reading on just how much you can push your car. Power steering is a revolutionary advancement in vehicle technology, but it’s more of a numbing effect on when tracking or auto-crossing your car. It’s an inherit handicap when you’re trying to get a better feel of how much more you can push your BMW in various turns.; the “numbness” that comes hand-in-hand with power steering is great for street driving, but for more of a “point-and-shoot” type steering, PSD’s are the way to go.


GARAGISTIC POWER STEERING DELETES CAN BE FOUND HERE:

 


GARAGISTIC POWER STEERING DELETE DIRECTIONS:

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Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 power steering delete blocks.


POWER STEERING DELETE QUICK NOTES:

 

There are numerous strategies when it comes to draining your PSD; Some people drain the rack completely and add a tiny bit of fresh power-steering fluid to lubricate the rack.

You can remove the power-steering pump, belt, bracket, hoses, and reservoir to drop some weight off the front of your e30, e36, or Z3.

A minor con of running no power-steering does increase the difficulty in turning the car under 5 miles per hour and parallel parking, however, the trade-off is the responsiveness you gain at higher speeds.

In all other situations its really not that bad and is totally worth the trade.


TOOLS FOR THE POWER STEERING DELETE INSTALL:

 

  • 17mm box wrench
  • medium size crescent wrench
  • carb spray

PARTS NEEDED FOR INSTALL:

STEP #1 OF PSD INSTALL:

  • Remove the old power-steering bolts on the steering rack.
  • Remove the smaller 17mm bolt first
  • Then remove the larger 22mm bolt with the crescent wrench it will clear the oil pan with a little persistence.
  • Then spray the area with some carb spray to clean off some road grime.

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E30 POWER STEERING DELETE PORTS

 

Here are the parts ready for assembly

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GARAGISTIC E30,E36,Z3 POWERSTEERING DELETE BLOCK KIT

STEP #2  OF PSD INSTALL:

  • first place a crush washer on each bolt.
  • then place the delete block over the bolts.
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POWER STEERING DELETE SET-UP

 

STEP #3 OF PSD INSTALL:

  • place a crush washer over the bolts.
  • then place this assembly on the rack and tighten down the bolts.
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STEP TWO OF POWER STEERING DELETE INSTALL

 

YOU’RE FINISHED INSTALLING YOUR POWER STEERING DELETE! e30 power steering delete

 


TL;DR
GARAGISTIC POWER-STEERING DELETE BLOCK INSTALLATION 

Installation is simple. You will need to remove the stock reservoir, pump and hoses. You’ll want to keep your stock banjo bolts and stock copper washers;  You’ll need them to  bolt your new power steering delete in place.  To take preemptive leaking issues, you’ll want to remove your power steering, this is a great way to stop any unwanted leaks from the “hose mod”. For any question regarding your Garagistic PSD install, email gofast@garagistic.com!

Garagistic PSD’s can be found here

Things to look for when buying an E30

Buying an E30? Do your home work before spending your hard earned money! We are going to go over a few things to look for when buying an e30.

 

Alex R tracking his e30
Alex R tracking his e30

To start off, you want to get in the car and open up the hood. This is where you can do a detailed inspection of the engine. The first place to really look would be the valve cover. The gasket does deteriorate over time. Not to expensive and takes about half an hour to install.
The next place to check would be all the intake lines, as well as the air filter. These do break down, as well as the intake boot (super common!), because it is rubber and will dry rot. These can be big issues for intake leaks and can cause the m20 to idle up and down (other wise known as hunt for an idle).
While you’re in the engine bay, you also want to look at the air conditioning unit. This system runs on R12 refrigerant and is not easy to find or fix. These systems are better left alone than to retrofit with R134A, but if you need it you can do it. It’s just a very, very expensive job.
The last place to check in the engine bay is the power steering unit. These systems are notorious for leaking. Although alot of people delete them for racing application, its not to expensive either route. Power steering deletes can be found here:

E30 power steering delete
E30 power steering delete

Now, we’ll get under the car and check underneath the transmission. Make sure that there is no oil around the rear main seal. This is a big job and will  involves taking out the shifter, the drive shaft, and the transmission. Don’t get one of these e30s with a broken rear main seal.
While you’re checking for a broken rear main seal, you also want to check if it has any exhaust leaks. The pipes before the cat converter can be pretty expensive, as well as the catalytic converter.

The door handles and glove box go bad often in these cars. They are brittle at this age. Cracks in the dash and a  broken odometer common. The odometer gears found here will fix your mileage counter.

E30 odometer gears
E30 odometer gears

If the speedometer does not work then check the speed sensor in the back of the differential. It’s about a ten dollar part and will take you maybe five minutes to install.
Last but not least, you want to check the body. California and Arizona cars are usually clean but still check. East coast cars often have fenders rotted out, as well as parts of the rocker panel. Another common spot is the sunroof.
Another thing to look at when buying an e30 is the rear shock tower mounts. Cars that are lowered on stiff suspenion car rip the metal out of the trunk so be sure to take a peak under the carpet in the trunk. If that needs repair our rear shock tower reinforcment kit can be bolted or welded into place.

 

BMW rear shock reinforcment
BMW rear shock reinforcement

 

That’s just some of the very basic things that are wrong with these cars. Please keep in mind these are are almost 30 year old. But with our garagistic products you can be sure that we will help you keep these little e30s running forever. All products can be found here.

 

Refreshing your E30, Z3, Z3M, or 318ti rear suspension (subframe bushings)

Refreshing your E30, Z3, Z3M, or 318ti rear suspension (subframe bushings)


Time to talk a little about how to refresh the rear suspension (subframe) on your E30, Z3, Z3M, or 318ti. The most often neglected part in these rear subframes is the rear subframe bushings.  Delrin or poly bushings in the rear suspension of a BMW E30 3 Series chassis can make a world of a difference.

The first thing you should do is water pressure/clean the rear suspension while its still on the car. No one wants to work on a dirty bmw.

In this writeup we are going to talk about our rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, raised rear subframe bushings, diff bushings, differential reinforcement and a few other things.

If your BMW is excessively lowered, you may want to consider our raised sub-frame bushings. These cars already have excess camber from lowering .

All the bushings you need for a rear subframe overhaul are available in our online website at store.garagistic.com
Looking at the outer end of the subframe there will be a bushing at both ends. This original bushing must be removed. This can be done using a bushing remover tool or other alternate means. Now, its easier to do this when the whole subframe is out of your e30 but this can be done in the vehicle as long as you got the original bushing out first (which can also be done in the vehicle).

Please note: You can only install an OEM subframe bushing while the subframe is still in the car. Any “two-piece” aftermarket units such as ours but be install with the subframe out of the car.
Once the bushing is out, we clean the inside where it came out. It doesn’t hurt to then we’ll lubricate lightly so it makes the new subframe bushing easier to install. Lithium grease, Liqui Moly copper anti-seize compound, Super lube are all good choices. Use gloves.

Once we have that, we’ll also put a coating on the subframe bushing.
We have found that the copper anti-seize works best with urethane bushings as far as preventing squeaks in the future. We’ve used all kinds of silicon lubricants as well as others. This is a little bit messy.

Please note: If you use our raised subframe bushings, you will want the thin side on the top and thick side on the bottom. If you use the standard geometry bushing, the thick side goes on the top and the thin side goes on the bottom.

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E30 rear subframe bushings

On our subframe bushings there are alignment tabs that line up with the subframe. Line them up and then install the bushing (a press helps in this case but is not needed). Push the E30 rear subframe bushing all the way up until it meets the bottom of the carrier.

You can use a press of tap the bushing into place using a mallet .
Now, we repeat for the other side of the bushing.  Again, we’ll lubricate the inside of this where it touches the carrier as well as the bushing.

Now, finally, we have the aluminum sleeve. This is where the bolt goes through. It only function is to keep the bolt from touching the bolt. Again, we’ll put some lubrication in the hole and a little from the other side as well. A little bit on the sleeve itself. We fit the sleeve down through the hole and this may take a little bit of work with the mallet as well (a press will make it alot easier). Even a 20 ton harbor freight press is a great help here.

You will then need to repeat it for the other side. You would now be able to install the subframe back into the car.  You will want to reuse your stock washers that go above. You will also reuse the original through bolt and nut for fastening it to the vehicle. This is ready to go.
Now, its time to install the trailing arm bushings. Your subframe is not adjustable, but using our camber/toe kit it would be. This will not affect the rear trailing arm in any way, we just want to mention it while on the point of the trailing arm bushing area. If you dont already know about camber/toe kit, they can be found here.

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E30 rear camber and toe brackets

They basically allow for camber adjustment as well as toe adjustment by moving the locating points of the two bushings within the trailing arm mount by turning the eccentric hardware.
Now, installation for the trailing arm bushing is easy. The bushings just fit into the arm and the sleeve goes in the center. You will need to remove the original bushings. The easiest way to remove them is cut off the mushroom rubberhead on one side of the bushing and press it through the other side and they’ll come out fairly easily.
This can be done on the vehicle, just like the subframe ones. (they are a little easier than the subframe ones).

As with the subframe, the first thing we’ll do is place some lubrication  all the way around the trailing arm hole and on each bushing.

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E30 rear trailing arm bushing

Please note: The trailing arm bushings are two different sizes. There is a thick and thin flange type. The thicker flange goes on the inside (of the car).  The thinner flange is on the outside (furthest from the center of the car).

Just like the subframe bushings, these go in with a tap of the mallet. Now, we’re ready for the sleeve. Again, we’ll get plenty of lubrication through the bore. The bore on the trailing arms is serrated to hold extra lubricant. Get as much lubricant as you can in there.
Finally, we’ll lubricate the sleeve as well. Now, its easiest to goe in from the outside of the control arm. (goes in from the outside). Again, you may need to strike it gently with a mallet.

Once you get all the trailing arm bushings installed the trailing arm is then ready to go back up into the subframe. You can use the original through bolt and nut to secure it in place. We do offer replacement hardware that has a thicker shoulder to eliminate some more play.
Now, finally for the garagistic diff bushing install. Now, again, as with the rest of the things we have gone over, the original diff bushing will need to be pressed out using a press. You can also remove the cover from the differential with the differential still in the vehicle and do this at your bench if you prefer.

Similar to the rest of the bushings, lubricate the bore in the diff cover. If you dont already know, a great upgraded diff cover for the e30 or 318ti is the Z3M unit. It holds a little bit more fluid and has fins to keep the fluid cooler under track use. As for which diff bushing is best, we go over that in detail here. 

The lip on the diff bushing is closest to the back of the car. (You cant actually place it in the other way) Now, that we have the diff bushing in, press in the sleeve where the diff bolt goes into.

This uses the original through bolt from the original bushing to install it into the chassis bracket.
With that, your rear suspension is all done. Remember, we have all of the  bushings we mentioned here in our online store at www.store.garagistic.com

They are available in 80a poly, 95a poly, or delrin. 

We also offer a fully restored setup on a core exchange basis here.

Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 Front control-arm bushings

Garagistic E30 & E36 & Z3 Front control-arm bushings


Today we’re going to talk about e30 front-control arm bushings, specifically the ones that are on e30s, e30 m3s, e36s, and e36 m3s. Just like all of our other poly Bushings we make in the United States. They come in three different flavors. They come in 80 poly, which is a soft poly, you’ve got your 95 poly, which is a hard poly, then you’ve got delrin, which is incredibly hard.

 

E30s and E36s both came with options. They either had offset front control arm bushings, or center control arm bushings. That really depends on your goals or what your car had originally. E30 m3s all had offset front control arm bushings. Early e36 m3s also had offset control arm bushings. Standard e30s had center control arm bushings and late model e36 m3s also had center control arm bushings. Could you upgrade from a center to an offset? Yes, you could and you would basically gaining about 10mm of track, because you’ll basically move out your wheels.

 


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Take your pick of Garagistic front control arm bushings for your E30, E36, or Z3!

To buy Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 front control arm bushings click here!

 



That’s one of the main things why you would switch to a offset front control arm bushing. The 80s by far are most street friendly. It’s going to absorb a little bit more noise. It’ll still transmit a little bit more noise over factory, just because of the solid fact that the bushing is actually solid in geometry, where you would find the stock bushing would have holes. It was made for comfort. It is made to give a little bit. That way the noise was kept a little bit lower. 80 is your street-friendly one. It’s good for autocross, it’s good for occasional track days. Overall it’s a good bushing.

Your 95 is your step up from that. A car that’s a little bit more dedicated to tracking. A little bit more noise is okay to make sure that the control arms in the front don’t move. Delrin is your full, all out race, drift application where noise is not a concern. You don’t want the control arm to move at all. It will transmit a little bit more noise, but it will get the control arm to basically not move at all in unwanted directions. That would be the main purpose of having that.

The symptom of a bad control arm is basically, it’s that symptom when you first get your e30, basically you go over a bump and that steering wheel shimmies and wobbles and you don’t know what’s going on. That’s usually the control arm bushing. You go over a bump and the wheel does whatever it wants. The whole control arm moves as a unit, when there’s nothing to attach to. Cheap upgrade at the age that these e30s and e36s are nowadays, this is probably neglected part on the car. It’s something worth looking in to even as a factory upgrade for your e30 or e36. When it comes to E30 front control-arm bushings, Garagistic bushings are the way to go.  Our USA-made front control-arm bushings come with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.


To buy Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 front control arm bushings click here!


DOWNLOAD THE GARAGISTIC APP!

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Garagistic: E30 rear trailing arm bushings

GARAGISTIC:
E30 rear trailing arm bushings


E30 rear trailing arm bushings; What are they and why do you need them? Today we’re talking all about Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings, specifically for your E30, your Z3, your 2002, your M Coupe, they all take the same rear trailing arm bushing, which would be similar to this one. It basically replaces the OEM part number 33329061945.

Basically what we got here is the flavors that we usually do all of our poly bushings kit in. You’ve got your 80, you got your 95, and you got your Derlin. Derlin being your all out race application. 95 being a little bit of dual purpose, you know a little bit more, emphasizing a little bit more performance than comfort. Then you’ve got your 80, which is basically your auto cross comfort. It’s a great street application. Often after these age these bushings are incredibly worn out and it’s time to replace them. Even when they’re brand new they don’t inherently have this lip on there, so they tend to kind of have a little bit of play anyway just because they’re actually meant to move a little bit to give you a little bit more comfort in your BMW.

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                                 Garagistic polyurethane bushings

 

For track enthusiasts that tends to be not what their main priority is, it’s basically the best handling possible. These definitely give that edge. It’s great for track, auto cross, drift. Even your street cars though, they can definitely benefit from the rear trailing arm bushings. Now this will also fit various other BMW’s like the 1602, 2002, E21, E12’s, E30’s, you know 318ti, the Z3 otherwise known as the angry shoe, it can benefit from having these kind of rear trailing arm bushings on there. Garagistic E30 rear trailing arm bushings are made right here in the USA. We also offer a lifetime warranty on all E30 rear trailing arm bushings.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.

Where to get Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings:

BMW SOLID DELRIN REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/BMW-E30-…

BMW 80A POLYURETHANE REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/80a-e30-…

BMW 95A POLYURETHANE REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/95a-e30-…


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BMW E36 / E46 REAR TRAILING ARM POLY BUSHINGS (RTAB)

BMW E36 / E46 REAR TRAILING ARM POLY BUSHINGS (RTAB)


Topic of the day, rear-trailing arm bushings.  Welcome to the Garagistic Blog! Your premier BMW performance online store for E30’s, E36’s, E46, and other class of BMW.


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We have them in 85a poly , 95a poly and delrin! 85a polyurethane transmission mounts are meant for that OEM + feel. That means you want a subtle upgrade for your street car without to much of a compromise in comfort, these are a happy medium. 85a are designed for the street enthusiast. 95a is great for dual purpose aggressive street and track applications. Derlin is best for race application only.

Today we’re going to talk about e36 and e46 rear trailing arm bushings. A often neglected part on e36 and e46. Now this part was on all of those chassis, whether it’s a 3-30, a 3-25, or an M3. The rear trailing arm bushings are all the same. Inherently, they usually float for comfort from the factory, and by float I mean, there is no lip on there, and they made that for comfort. Having that control and being able to absorb those bumps in the road, it was meant for comfort. That was the ultimate driving machine. In case you track your ultimate driving machines, that’s when you would upgrade your rear trailing arm bushings, which are at this age, most likely worn out anyway.

As with all of our bushings, they are made in the U.S.A., Westminster, California. They come with a lifetime warranty and again, we offer them in all of our three classic flavors. You’ve got your 80 poly, which is your street friendly, soft poly. It’s very good for auto cross, occasional track days. It’s a good trade off if you plan on driving your e36 or e46 on the street.

Then you’ve got your 95 here. Our color for that is usually blue, and that’s basically more of an auto cross track application. You track more often and it’s a good, hard, poly. It’s the hardest poly available.
Then you’ve got your derlin, which is basically, it’s a very hard basically track application, good for drift, good for road course. It’s basically meant for you’re all out track car, where you don’t want any other variables in your suspensions. Especially moving suspension components in unwanted directions. It comes with aluminum race, and that way it doesn’t touch the poly bushings or anything like that.
They all have a lifetime warranty. These can be bought on our website, at Garagistic.com or through out Garagistic app. Be sure to download the app if you don’t around have it. It’s a good way to get coupon codes and basically be in the know about our latest products. These are good with all the other e36, e46 bushings we make as far, you know, just like differential bushings and sub frame bushings, and front control arm bushings. Be sure to check out the website, we make all of them in house, and if you have any questions about the e36 and e46 rear trailing arm bushings, we would love to hear from you.  In summary, rear-trailing arm bushings are a must have for your track or street car.  Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings, like every other Garagistic bushing, are 100% made in the USA and come with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.



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Garagistic E30/E36 Brass caliper guide bushings and stainless steel brake lines

E30/E36 BRASS CALIPER GUIDE BUSHING AND STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES


Doing things how they should be done.

Our brass caliper guides are meant to replace the rubber caliper guides in your e30, e36, e46, and other BMW. They only fit ATE calipers, something to take note of. On your e30 it won’t fit your girling type caliper. This is a great upgrade. The rubber that’s usually in there actually causes a lot of these two pieces of the caliper to actually be sloppy and actually give when you’re braking. There’s a lot of movement in there and it’s something that I’m pretty sure BMW made for comfort. For racing applications you basically want the best pedal feel, the least amount of unwanted movement in your calipers assembly. The brass caliper bushings can be a great upgrade. You pair that up with stainless steel brake lines and you got yourself pretty much, almost fully restored braking system. You got to change the fluid and the actual consumables. These two parts play a major role in the performance braking of your e30, e36, and e46.  Garagistic brass caliper guide bushings are made right here in the USA.

Check out the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.

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Garagistic USA made Brass caliper guide bushings

WHERE TO GET BMW BRASS BRAKE ATE CALIPER GUIDE BUSHING SET – E30, E36, E46, E92:

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Why upgrade your E28, E30, and E36 brake lines to stainless steel?

UPGRADING YOUR E28,E30,E36 STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES


The upgrade that keeps on giving.

QUESTION: “Are stainless steel brake lines worth it?”

ANSWER: Only those who have driven a car with them know how truly worth it they are.


Today were going to talk about brake lines, stainless steel brake lines to be exact. Now we carry stainless steel brake lines for your E30, your E28, your E36. We got your other models coming soon like your E46. Upgrading to stainless steel brake lines is a great upgrade.
Usually your stock rubber lines, even when they’re brand new and in good shape, they expand and that can change pedal feel. Stainless steel brake lines you pretty much replaced them and you’ll never have to replace them again. They’re not like other lines. They don’t crack, they don’t break. They offer good pedal feel, a lot firmer pedal feel. A little bit more confidence inspiring braking. It’s definitely a good item to do, and it’s a safety item.
It’s something you should look as soon as you buy your E30, your E28, your E36. It’s something you should look at inspecting the brakes. Now, most commonly a kit like this … This is a E30 kit. It comes with a different amount of lines here. Then you got your front, you got your two front lines. Then you got your two lines that run above your sub-frame, and then your two lines that run to your rear calipers. This installation shouldn’t take too long you. The longest part of process is probably bleeding the brakes.
Other than that it’s probably a 30-45 minutes job, depending on if you have a lift or if you have jack-stands. It really depends. The hardest brake lines to replace on this would be the ones that are above the sub-frame, just because of physically reaching them. Other than that this is not a hard job. It requires some basic tools, some basic break knowledge. With all of our Garagistic products, there’s a lifetime warranty on our brake lines.

It’s something you should definitely look into. Having a failed brake line or failed breaks in general, especially if you’re auto-crossing or you’re tracking, anything really, even on the street. It could be a very dangerous thing, so be sure to check them out you. You can be found on our Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.


WHERE TO GET BMW STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES:


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Garagistic: How to swap an E30 Front Subframe

Garagistic:
How to swap an E30 Front Subframe


The time has come, you have finally decided to reinforce your E30 front subframe; it’s not as hard as you might think!
Our friends at Salt City Euro’s show you how to get it done with the Garagistic reinforced E30 subframe!
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This is one of the most important modifications you should make if you’re driving your car hard or adding more power. The Garagistic reinforced subframe arrives freshly powder coated and includes welded tabs that make the sway bar and engine mounts much stronger. This is necessary to prevent breaking the subframe. This is a stock subframe that was used with a S50 motor. You can purchase  a reinforced subframe over at the Garagistic website.

There are multiple ways to complete this job, which will also depend on the configuration of your car. For example, we have no power steering, but we do have a 24 valve oil pan which prevents us from removing the steering rack on the car, as you could on an E30 with an M20 or M42. We won’t mention the power steering system again. You are on your own with that. Use this as a general guide.

We’re using an engine support bar to suspend the engine properly since we’ll be removing everything that is holding the engine in place. To complete this job you will need the following tools: the jack and jack stands, an engine support bar, a wrench with 13, 16, 17, and 19 mm sockets, and a ball joint removal tool. We also needed a small pry bar. Start by loosening your lug bolts and securing the car on jack stands. We then removed the wheels and loosened the control arm and tie rod end bolts. You’ll need a 19mm socket for the control arm and a 17mm socket for the steering rack tie rod ends. We’re using a basic ball joint tool to remove the ball joints. Before attempting to remove the ball joints, make sure you leave the nut flush with the threads of the ball joint. This will give you a larger surface to work with and protect your threads. Don’t be afraid to apply a lot of pressure, it takes quite a bit to pop those ball joints out.

Next, remove the two 17mm bolts holding the control arm bushings in place. You may have to carefully pry them off the car’s chassis. Remove the lower nuts holding the motor mounts in place. Disconnect your steering shaft from the steering rack. We are showing this on another car so you can clearly see it. Normally the engine would block the view. At this point you can carefully raise your engine to take all the weight off the motor mounts. We also used the jack with a 2×4 for extra safety. Once you’ve loosened and removed the four 17mm bolts holding the subframe in place, carefully lower the subframe. At this point it is time to disassemble your subframe assembly. Remove the steering rack, sway bar, and control arms, then transfer the steering rack to your new subframe.

It’s time to reinstall the e30 subframe on your car. This is much easier with the help of a friend. Align and reinstall your control arms. A small tip: if the ball joint is spinning and does not want to tighten, you can use a jack to press the joint into the knuckle. Reinstall your sway bar and tighten to spec. Finally, remember to tighten and torque your motor mounts to spec.
Congratulations.

You’ve successfully swapped the subframe on your E30. This job is time consuming and may require two people at times. We estimate that it takes 2 to 4 hours to complete depending on skill.

On a scale of 1 to 10, we’d give this job a 5, with 1 being a wheel change and 10 being a full top to bottom engine rebuild.

All Garagistic E30 Front Subframe reinforcements are made in house here in the USA.


Our friends at Salt City Euro’s show you how to get your Garagistic E30 Subframe done!

 

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The road to SEMA

Garagistic is proud to announce we are entering the arena of brilliant minds and innovators all around the globe. We’re beginning our journey to the largest auto trade event in the world: SEMA.

Egge Speed Shop - originally posted to Flickr as IMG_9796
SEMA 2008

You read correctly. We will be joining industry leaders from around the world this coming November 2016. But we are not about to go empty handed. We have a treat for you guys; a project car that will be singularly the most ambitious stunt Garagistic has ever tackled. We have named it, Ares.

WHAT IS ARES?
Violence and control. The fury of war merged with military strategy. This is the embodiment of the offspring of Zeus and Hera. The power of American muscle and the poise of German engineering. This is the son of Olympus, Ares.

Ares, Greek god of war, classically depicted.

We’ve been dancing with V8s long enough now, and damn it we have it down to science. Besides that we have our high caliber specialty suspension we forge here in the shop. Combine these ingredients with a 1989 325i and it all comes together as a street legal, track ready, easy to build, easy to modify, weapon of a car.

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Corvette power in a lightweight BMW 3 series.


PROVING OURSELVES
These are our products. Everything you will see on Ares is either items we make that are currently in production or a custom piece built directly from am existing Garagistic piece. But don’t worry, there is nothing on Ares that would be unavailable to you. One of the objectives when we were conceiving the plans for Ares is to produce new performance parts that can be used in any application.

FOR THOSE WHO LIKE NUMBERS
Vehicle: 1989 BMW 325i
Power train: Supercharged Chevy LS1 5.7
Horsepower: 550*
Torque: 575*
Transmission: T-56 Getrag 6-Speed Manual
Curb weight: 2800 lbs
Wheel width: 17’x11′
Exterior Body Kit: Rocketbunny / Pandem imported from Japan

Certainly we have a massive amount of work before us, however we’ve begun working on this already. Click here for a link to the completion map to see how far we’ve progressed, and keep following us for the next post where I will explain in detail how much we’ve already done to Ares and everything yet to complete. We have a long way to get to SEMA but as they, you never really finish you just run out of time.