A common modification on BMW E30, Z3, and E36’s are the infamous power steering delete blocks. This modification offers a more responsive feel for your bemmer which translates for a more accurate reading on just how much you can push your car. Power steering is a revolutionary advancement in vehicle technology, but it’s more of a numbing effect on when tracking or auto-crossing your car. It’s an inherit handicap when you’re trying to get a better feel of how much more you can push your BMW in various turns.; the “numbness” that comes hand-in-hand with power steering is great for street driving, but for more of a “point-and-shoot” type steering, PSD’s are the way to go.
There are numerous strategies when it comes to draining your PSD; Some people drain the rack completely and add a tiny bit of fresh power-steering fluid to lubricate the rack.
You can remove the power-steering pump, belt, bracket, hoses, and reservoir to drop some weight off the front of your e30, e36, or Z3.
A minor con of running no power-steering does increase the difficulty in turning the car under 5 miles per hour and parallel parking, however, the trade-off is the responsiveness you gain at higher speeds.
In all other situations its really not that bad and is totally worth the trade.
Installation is simple. You will need to remove the stock reservoir, pump and hoses. You’ll want to keep your stock banjo bolts and stock copper washers; You’ll need them to bolt your new power steering delete in place. To take preemptive leaking issues, you’ll want to remove your power steering, this is a great way to stop any unwanted leaks from the “hose mod”. For any question regarding your Garagistic PSD install, email email@example.com!
Dont let this little part fool you! These Clutch Fork Pivot Pin – 21511223328 bushings should be changed anytime the clutch fork or release bearing is removed. These units have improved durability and with ensure smooth, squeak-free shifts. Having this part in hand when your doing any job that requires the dropping of the transmission will save you time and hassle later on.
Symptoms can include “clutch doesn’t quite feel like it should” or maybe the the “release point is a little bit off”. The reason for that, in some of the cases, is the clutch pivot pin inside the bell housing in the transmission is worn out.
A stock clutch pivot pin with a high performance clutch can show seroius wear in as little as 7,000 miles. There can be significant wear on the tip of this pivot pin making it quite a bit shorter than this brand new factory pivot pin that we sell here.
The price of this pin is very small , but can become expensive because there’s a lot of time involved in pulling the transmission all the way out of the car.
A great upgrade can be a silicon bronze replica of the part. A clutch pivot pin made out of silicon bronze, is far superior material compared to the plastic that the original one is made out of.
The clutch fork can also wear, at the location that the pivot pin rubs. So its always a good idea to replace the fork as well.
Replacement couldn’t be any easier once everything is taken out of the car (which includes the transmission). The factory pivot pin is just simply pushed in to the bell housing and held on with a spring.
Buying an E30? Do your home work before spending your hard earned money! We are going to go over a few things to look for when buying an e30.
To start off, you want to get in the car and open up the hood. This is where you can do a detailed inspection of the engine. The first place to really look would be the valve cover. The gasket does deteriorate over time. Not to expensive and takes about half an hour to install.
The next place to check would be all the intake lines, as well as the air filter. These do break down, as well as the intake boot (super common!), because it is rubber and will dry rot. These can be big issues for intake leaks and can cause the m20 to idle up and down (other wise known as hunt for an idle).
While you’re in the engine bay, you also want to look at the air conditioning unit. This system runs on R12 refrigerant and is not easy to find or fix. These systems are better left alone than to retrofit with R134A, but if you need it you can do it. It’s just a very, very expensive job.
The last place to check in the engine bay is the power steering unit. These systems are notorious for leaking. Although alot of people delete them for racing application, its not to expensive either route. Power steering deletes can be found here:
Now, we’ll get under the car and check underneath the transmission. Make sure that there is no oil around the rear main seal. This is a big job and will involves taking out the shifter, the drive shaft, and the transmission. Don’t get one of these e30s with a broken rear main seal.
While you’re checking for a broken rear main seal, you also want to check if it has any exhaust leaks. The pipes before the cat converter can be pretty expensive, as well as the catalytic converter.
If the speedometer does not work then check the speed sensor in the back of the differential. It’s about a ten dollar part and will take you maybe five minutes to install.
Last but not least, you want to check the body. California and Arizona cars are usually clean but still check. East coast cars often have fenders rotted out, as well as parts of the rocker panel. Another common spot is the sunroof.
Another thing to look at when buying an e30 is the rear shock tower mounts. Cars that are lowered on stiff suspenion car rip the metal out of the trunk so be sure to take a peak under the carpet in the trunk. If that needs repair our rear shock tower reinforcment kit can be bolted or welded into place.
That’s just some of the very basic things that are wrong with these cars. Please keep in mind these are are almost 30 year old. But with our garagistic products you can be sure that we will help you keep these little e30s running forever. All products can be found here.
Refreshing your E30, Z3, Z3M, or 318ti rear suspension (subframe bushings)
Time to talk a little about how to refresh the rear suspension (subframe) on your E30, Z3, Z3M, or 318ti. The most often neglected part in these rear subframes is the rear subframe bushings. Delrin or poly bushings in the rear suspension of a BMW E30 3 Series chassis can make a world of a difference.
The first thing you should do is water pressure/clean the rear suspension while its still on the car. No one wants to work on a dirty bmw.
In this writeup we are going to talk about our rear subframe bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, raised rear subframe bushings, diff bushings, differential reinforcement and a few other things.
If your BMW is excessively lowered, you may want to consider our raised sub-frame bushings. These cars already have excess camber from lowering .
All the bushings you need for a rear subframe overhaul are available in our online website at store.garagistic.com
Looking at the outer end of the subframe there will be a bushing at both ends. This original bushing must be removed. This can be done using a bushing remover tool or other alternate means. Now, its easier to do this when the whole subframe is out of your e30 but this can be done in the vehicle as long as you got the original bushing out first (which can also be done in the vehicle).
Please note: You can only install an OEM subframe bushing while the subframe is still in the car. Any “two-piece” aftermarket units such as ours but be install with the subframe out of the car.
Once the bushing is out, we clean the inside where it came out. It doesn’t hurt to then we’ll lubricate lightly so it makes the new subframe bushing easier to install. Lithium grease, Liqui Moly copper anti-seize compound, Super lube are all good choices. Use gloves.
Once we have that, we’ll also put a coating on the subframe bushing.
We have found that the copper anti-seize works best with urethane bushings as far as preventing squeaks in the future. We’ve used all kinds of silicon lubricants as well as others. This is a little bit messy.
Please note: If you use our raised subframe bushings, you will want the thin side on the top and thick side on the bottom. If you use the standard geometry bushing, the thick side goes on the top and the thin side goes on the bottom.
On our subframe bushings there are alignment tabs that line up with the subframe. Line them up and then install the bushing (a press helps in this case but is not needed). Push the E30 rear subframe bushing all the way up until it meets the bottom of the carrier.
You can use a press of tap the bushing into place using a mallet .
Now, we repeat for the other side of the bushing. Again, we’ll lubricate the inside of this where it touches the carrier as well as the bushing.
Now, finally, we have the aluminum sleeve. This is where the bolt goes through. It only function is to keep the bolt from touching the bolt. Again, we’ll put some lubrication in the hole and a little from the other side as well. A little bit on the sleeve itself. We fit the sleeve down through the hole and this may take a little bit of work with the mallet as well (a press will make it alot easier). Even a 20 ton harbor freight press is a great help here.
You will then need to repeat it for the other side. You would now be able to install the subframe back into the car. You will want to reuse your stock washers that go above. You will also reuse the original through bolt and nut for fastening it to the vehicle. This is ready to go.
Now, its time to install the trailing arm bushings. Your subframe is not adjustable, but using our camber/toe kit it would be. This will not affect the rear trailing arm in any way, we just want to mention it while on the point of the trailing arm bushing area. If you dont already know about camber/toe kit, they can be found here.
They basically allow for camber adjustment as well as toe adjustment by moving the locating points of the two bushings within the trailing arm mount by turning the eccentric hardware.
Now, installation for the trailing arm bushing is easy. The bushings just fit into the arm and the sleeve goes in the center. You will need to remove the original bushings. The easiest way to remove them is cut off the mushroom rubberhead on one side of the bushing and press it through the other side and they’ll come out fairly easily.
This can be done on the vehicle, just like the subframe ones. (they are a little easier than the subframe ones).
As with the subframe, the first thing we’ll do is place some lubrication all the way around the trailing arm hole and on each bushing.
Please note: The trailing arm bushings are two different sizes. There is a thick and thin flange type. The thinner flange goes on the inside (of the car). The thicker flange is on the outside (furthest from the center of the car). Easy way to remember that is with our cheezy little rhyme “thinner on the inner”.
Just like the subframe bushings, these go in with a tap of the mallet. Now, we’re ready for the sleeve. Again, we’ll get plenty of lubrication through the bore. The bore on the trailing arms is serrated to hold extra lubricant. Get as much lubricant as you can in there.
Finally, we’ll lubricate the sleeve as well. Now, its easiest to goe in from the outside of the control arm. (goes in from the outside). Again, you may need to strike it gently with a mallet.
Once you get all the trailing arm bushings installed the trailing arm is then ready to go back up into the subframe. You can use the original through bolt and nut to secure it in place. We do offer replacement hardware that has a thicker shoulder to eliminate some more play.
Now, finally for the garagistic diff bushing install. Now, again, as with the rest of the things we have gone over, the original diff bushing will need to be pressed out using a press. You can also remove the cover from the differential with the differential still in the vehicle and do this at your bench if you prefer.
The lip on the diff bushing is closest to the back of the car. (You cant actually place it in the other way) Now, that we have the diff bushing in, press in the sleeve where the diff bolt goes into.
This uses the original through bolt from the original bushing to install it into the chassis bracket.
With that, your rear suspension is all done. Remember, we have all of the bushings we mentioned here in our online store at www.store.garagistic.com