Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 Front control-arm bushings

Garagistic E30 & E36 & Z3 Front control-arm bushings


Today we’re going to talk about e30 front-control arm bushings, specifically the ones that are on e30s, e30 m3s, e36s, and e36 m3s. Just like all of our other poly Bushings we make in the United States. They come in three different flavors. They come in 80 poly, which is a soft poly, you’ve got your 95 poly, which is a hard poly, then you’ve got delrin, which is incredibly hard.

 

E30s and E36s both came with options. They either had offset front control arm bushings, or center control arm bushings. That really depends on your goals or what your car had originally. E30 m3s all had offset front control arm bushings. Early e36 m3s also had offset control arm bushings. Standard e30s had center control arm bushings and late model e36 m3s also had center control arm bushings. Could you upgrade from a center to an offset? Yes, you could and you would basically gaining about 10mm of track, because you’ll basically move out your wheels.

 


BMW-e30-e36,-z3-poly-offset front-control-arm-bushings-garagistic
Take your pick of Garagistic front control arm bushings for your E30, E36, or Z3!

To buy Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 front control arm bushings click here!

 



That’s one of the main things why you would switch to a offset front control arm bushing. The 80s by far are most street friendly. It’s going to absorb a little bit more noise. It’ll still transmit a little bit more noise over factory, just because of the solid fact that the bushing is actually solid in geometry, where you would find the stock bushing would have holes. It was made for comfort. It is made to give a little bit. That way the noise was kept a little bit lower. 80 is your street-friendly one. It’s good for autocross, it’s good for occasional track days. Overall it’s a good bushing.

Your 95 is your step up from that. A car that’s a little bit more dedicated to tracking. A little bit more noise is okay to make sure that the control arms in the front don’t move. Delrin is your full, all out race, drift application where noise is not a concern. You don’t want the control arm to move at all. It will transmit a little bit more noise, but it will get the control arm to basically not move at all in unwanted directions. That would be the main purpose of having that.

The symptom of a bad control arm is basically, it’s that symptom when you first get your e30, basically you go over a bump and that steering wheel shimmies and wobbles and you don’t know what’s going on. That’s usually the control arm bushing. You go over a bump and the wheel does whatever it wants. The whole control arm moves as a unit, when there’s nothing to attach to. Cheap upgrade at the age that these e30s and e36s are nowadays, this is probably neglected part on the car. It’s something worth looking in to even as a factory upgrade for your e30 or e36. When it comes to E30 front control-arm bushings, Garagistic bushings are the way to go.  Our USA-made front control-arm bushings come with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.


To buy Garagistic E30, E36, Z3 front control arm bushings click here!


DOWNLOAD THE GARAGISTIC APP!

garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

 

 

BMW poly and delrin transmission bushings – E30, E36, E46, E21, E39

GARAGISTIC E30 Polyurethane/Delrin transmission bushings

Today we’re going to talk about Garagistic transmission bushings. Now these are our poly and derlin units. They can be found on virtually every BMW. They are all the same so your e30, your e36, e46, e90, e92s, f-series, all of them actually take the same transmission bushing. Even e21s got these so this is actually virtually compatible with almost every BMW made to an extent. Ask us, if you have any questions about that. Whether you should go with poly or delrin transmission bushings really depends the primary application of your car.

They are available in our 3 different durometers. You’ve got your 80 series which is your soft poly. You’ve got your 95, your hard poly and then your derlin. Now, you’re going to want to be careful which durometer you pick on your transmission as well as your differential because these are the only two bushings that will transmit a lot of noise. You will hear the transmission line with these kind of parts that are not factory like these.


TAKE YOUR PICK OF GARAGISTIC TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS

e30-transmission-bushing-derlin-poly-E30-E36-E46
BMW E30 E36 E46 E90 DELRIN        TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS

 


E30-E36-Z3-DELRIN-OFFSET-FRONT-CONTROL-ARM-BUSHINGS
E30, E36 AND Z3 DELRIN OFFSET FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS

BMW-80A-POLYURETHANE-TRANSMISSION-BUSHINGS
BMW 80A POLYURETHANE TRANSMISSION BUSHINGS

Your differential will make a noise and your transmission will make these noises as well. This is a bolt-through design so it’s meant to basically be a fail-safe. This bushing will basically never leave your transmission. It’s not isolated so it does inherently transmit a little more noise. Your 80 being the most bearable and your derlin being your full-on race application.

This is a very common neglected part on e30s, e36s, e46s. You’ll often see transmission bushing sagging and ripped and torn. Sometimes we’ve seen cars where they are disconnected in half, especially under track duty and drifting and stuff like that. Basically, these are our transmission bushings. If you have any questions about whether they are compatible with your BMW, please feel free to give us an email. They can be found on our online store at garagistic.com. They can also be found on our Garagistic app. The app if you don’t already have it is a great download. It’s a good way to get deals, flash sales, instructions so definitely take some time to download to app. As with all our poly stuff and almost all the things that we make, there’s a lifetime warranty so you can always rest assured you’ve got the Garagistic guarantee that that you got a perfect product every single time. Garagistic transmission bushings, just like all Garagistic bushings, are 100% USA made with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.



garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

Garagistic: E30 rear trailing arm bushings

GARAGISTIC:
E30 rear trailing arm bushings


E30 rear trailing arm bushings; What are they and why do you need them? Today we’re talking all about Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings, specifically for your E30, your Z3, your 2002, your M Coupe, they all take the same rear trailing arm bushing, which would be similar to this one. It basically replaces the OEM part number 33329061945.

Basically what we got here is the flavors that we usually do all of our poly bushings kit in. You’ve got your 80, you got your 95, and you got your Derlin. Derlin being your all out race application. 95 being a little bit of dual purpose, you know a little bit more, emphasizing a little bit more performance than comfort. Then you’ve got your 80, which is basically your auto cross comfort. It’s a great street application. Often after these age these bushings are incredibly worn out and it’s time to replace them. Even when they’re brand new they don’t inherently have this lip on there, so they tend to kind of have a little bit of play anyway just because they’re actually meant to move a little bit to give you a little bit more comfort in your BMW.

BMW-e30-rear-trailing-arm-bushings
                                 Garagistic polyurethane bushings

 

For track enthusiasts that tends to be not what their main priority is, it’s basically the best handling possible. These definitely give that edge. It’s great for track, auto cross, drift. Even your street cars though, they can definitely benefit from the rear trailing arm bushings. Now this will also fit various other BMW’s like the 1602, 2002, E21, E12’s, E30’s, you know 318ti, the Z3 otherwise known as the angry shoe, it can benefit from having these kind of rear trailing arm bushings on there. Garagistic E30 rear trailing arm bushings are made right here in the USA. We also offer a lifetime warranty on all E30 rear trailing arm bushings.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.

Where to get Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings:

BMW SOLID DELRIN REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/BMW-E30-…

BMW 80A POLYURETHANE REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/80a-e30-…

BMW 95A POLYURETHANE REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS:
https://store.garagistic.com/95a-e30-…


garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

BMW E36 / E46 REAR TRAILING ARM POLY BUSHINGS (RTAB)

BMW E36 / E46 REAR TRAILING ARM POLY BUSHINGS (RTAB)


Topic of the day, rear-trailing arm bushings.  Welcome to the Garagistic Blog! Your premier BMW performance online store for E30’s, E36’s, E46, and other class of BMW.


BMW-E36-E46-rear-trailing-arm-poly-bushings-RTAB
We have them in 85a poly , 95a poly and delrin! 85a polyurethane transmission mounts are meant for that OEM + feel. That means you want a subtle upgrade for your street car without to much of a compromise in comfort, these are a happy medium. 85a are designed for the street enthusiast. 95a is great for dual purpose aggressive street and track applications. Derlin is best for race application only.

Today we’re going to talk about e36 and e46 rear trailing arm bushings. A often neglected part on e36 and e46. Now this part was on all of those chassis, whether it’s a 3-30, a 3-25, or an M3. The rear trailing arm bushings are all the same. Inherently, they usually float for comfort from the factory, and by float I mean, there is no lip on there, and they made that for comfort. Having that control and being able to absorb those bumps in the road, it was meant for comfort. That was the ultimate driving machine. In case you track your ultimate driving machines, that’s when you would upgrade your rear trailing arm bushings, which are at this age, most likely worn out anyway.

As with all of our bushings, they are made in the U.S.A., Westminster, California. They come with a lifetime warranty and again, we offer them in all of our three classic flavors. You’ve got your 80 poly, which is your street friendly, soft poly. It’s very good for auto cross, occasional track days. It’s a good trade off if you plan on driving your e36 or e46 on the street.

Then you’ve got your 95 here. Our color for that is usually blue, and that’s basically more of an auto cross track application. You track more often and it’s a good, hard, poly. It’s the hardest poly available.
Then you’ve got your derlin, which is basically, it’s a very hard basically track application, good for drift, good for road course. It’s basically meant for you’re all out track car, where you don’t want any other variables in your suspensions. Especially moving suspension components in unwanted directions. It comes with aluminum race, and that way it doesn’t touch the poly bushings or anything like that.
They all have a lifetime warranty. These can be bought on our website, at Garagistic.com or through out Garagistic app. Be sure to download the app if you don’t around have it. It’s a good way to get coupon codes and basically be in the know about our latest products. These are good with all the other e36, e46 bushings we make as far, you know, just like differential bushings and sub frame bushings, and front control arm bushings. Be sure to check out the website, we make all of them in house, and if you have any questions about the e36 and e46 rear trailing arm bushings, we would love to hear from you.  In summary, rear-trailing arm bushings are a must have for your track or street car.  Garagistic rear trailing arm bushings, like every other Garagistic bushing, are 100% made in the USA and come with a lifetime warranty.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.



garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

Upgrading to Poly/Delrin E30, z3 318ti diff bushings!

POLY/DERLIN E30,Z3,318TI DIFFERENTIAL BUSHINGS


Today were going to talk about poly and Delrin differential bushings for your E30, your, E36ti’s, yours Z3’s. They all compatible.

They all take the same some the sub-frame bushings. They all take the same sub-frames pretty much, theoretically speaking, and the same diff bushing. Today here we got all of our diff bushings that we offer. It’s a Delrin version, which is basically for all-out race guys. It’s good for track application, if you really don’t want that diff to move, Delrin the one for you. It will transmit a little bit more noise, being that it is solid plastic basically.

Then you got your 80-Series, which is the softest poly available. It’s a happy street-friendly durometer hardness. It doesn’t transmit as much noise obviously as the Delrin, being that it will absorb a lot of the noise.  It’s really good for autocross, occasional track days, it’s just an all around good bushing. Then you got your 95 which is the hardest poly available. This is the one that we like, it’s the happy medium. It will transmit a ton, a little bit more noise than the 80 but not quite as much as the Delrin. They all basically have the same geometry, they’re solid bushing. As you can see, there is no holes like the factory bushing. The factory bushing have only is connected two or three points, and it was made for comfort, it was design for comfort. Even when you’re going with the softest poly it’s going to be a great upgrade over your stock bushing because it’s attached physically in more area. BMW-POLY-DELRIN-DIFFERENTIALDIFF-BUSHING-BMw-E30-E36-318TI-Z3

They all have a lifetime warranty,all made in USA, here in Westminster California. It’s meant to replace part number 331 71 135242 and that basically is found in E30s, Z3s and E36ti’s, even your 325iIX’s take the same differential bushing, so it’s also compatible with that. Now this will … it’s something that will add responsiveness, it’s going to limit differential movement.   A failed if bushing basically sounds like an ape trying to escape from your trunk. There’s usually thump, there’s things going on in the trunk. Usually when you put it in gear, stuff like that, you’re going to hear a bang thump something. Monkey’s trying to get out, usually it’s a because the differential bushing is gone, it’s literally not connected anymore.    Installation is simple you will need a press because it does get pressed into your factory differential cover. It’s compatible with M Coupe covers, so even if you’re running on your E30 the upgraded differential cover from the M Coupe or even your E36 or 318ti E36 unit, they’ll accept the M Coupe cover, this will fit it. It’s a great upgrade, very low-cost.  It’s a maintenance thing. These things are are quite old now and it’s usually time to replace them. Now this is kind of a while you’re at it thing. If you guys who put in LS1’s, the M60’s, S54 the big motors putting in a little more power. While you look at your differential it’s probably a good idea to look at our secondary diff mount.

This is one of the piece of the components, but basically what this does is it adds a second ear to your differential. Basically this came in later 36’s and stuff like that. BMW basically realized that they should have two years on the differentials. E30s obviously didn’t, they had one ear. This is a great upgrade, very low budget compared to the damage that could occur to your differential.  It obviously will require another differential bushing and it will also accept a stock differential bushing. That’s also a good upgrade. Hopefully this made your understanding of E30 diff bushings a little bit better. These Garagistic Poly/Delrin E30, z3 318ti diff bushings are made right here in the USA and come with a lifetime warranty.

You can also check out on our app and our website. If you have any questions, please feel free to drop us a line or visit us at our website.

All parts can be found on the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.


BMW POLY OR DELRIN DIFFERENTIAL (DIFF) BUSHING – BMW E30 , E36 318TI , Z3


 


garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

Garagistic E30/E36 Brass caliper guide bushings and stainless steel brake lines

E30/E36 BRASS CALIPER GUIDE BUSHING AND STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES


Doing things how they should be done.

Our brass caliper guides are meant to replace the rubber caliper guides in your e30, e36, e46, and other BMW. They only fit ATE calipers, something to take note of. On your e30 it won’t fit your girling type caliper. This is a great upgrade. The rubber that’s usually in there actually causes a lot of these two pieces of the caliper to actually be sloppy and actually give when you’re braking. There’s a lot of movement in there and it’s something that I’m pretty sure BMW made for comfort. For racing applications you basically want the best pedal feel, the least amount of unwanted movement in your calipers assembly. The brass caliper bushings can be a great upgrade. You pair that up with stainless steel brake lines and you got yourself pretty much, almost fully restored braking system. You got to change the fluid and the actual consumables. These two parts play a major role in the performance braking of your e30, e36, and e46.  Garagistic brass caliper guide bushings are made right here in the USA.

Check out the Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.

Brass-caliper-guide-bushings-e30-e23-e24-e28
Garagistic USA made Brass caliper guide bushings

WHERE TO GET BMW BRASS BRAKE ATE CALIPER GUIDE BUSHING SET – E30, E36, E46, E92:

garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

Why upgrade your E28, E30, and E36 brake lines to stainless steel?

UPGRADING YOUR E28,E30,E36 STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES


The upgrade that keeps on giving.

QUESTION: “Are stainless steel brake lines worth it?”

ANSWER: Only those who have driven a car with them know how truly worth it they are.


Today were going to talk about brake lines, stainless steel brake lines to be exact. Now we carry stainless steel brake lines for your E30, your E28, your E36. We got your other models coming soon like your E46. Upgrading to stainless steel brake lines is a great upgrade.
Usually your stock rubber lines, even when they’re brand new and in good shape, they expand and that can change pedal feel. Stainless steel brake lines you pretty much replaced them and you’ll never have to replace them again. They’re not like other lines. They don’t crack, they don’t break. They offer good pedal feel, a lot firmer pedal feel. A little bit more confidence inspiring braking. It’s definitely a good item to do, and it’s a safety item.
It’s something you should look as soon as you buy your E30, your E28, your E36. It’s something you should look at inspecting the brakes. Now, most commonly a kit like this … This is a E30 kit. It comes with a different amount of lines here. Then you got your front, you got your two front lines. Then you got your two lines that run above your sub-frame, and then your two lines that run to your rear calipers. This installation shouldn’t take too long you. The longest part of process is probably bleeding the brakes.
Other than that it’s probably a 30-45 minutes job, depending on if you have a lift or if you have jack-stands. It really depends. The hardest brake lines to replace on this would be the ones that are above the sub-frame, just because of physically reaching them. Other than that this is not a hard job. It requires some basic tools, some basic break knowledge. With all of our Garagistic products, there’s a lifetime warranty on our brake lines.

It’s something you should definitely look into. Having a failed brake line or failed breaks in general, especially if you’re auto-crossing or you’re tracking, anything really, even on the street. It could be a very dangerous thing, so be sure to check them out you. You can be found on our Garagistic app (ANDROID OR APPLE) or on our website www.garagistic.com and if you have any questions, please feel free to shoot us an email or give us a call. We’d be happy to help.


WHERE TO GET BMW STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES:


e28-e36-e32-e34-e24-stainless-steel-brake-lines


garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

Garagistic: How to swap an E30 Front Subframe

Garagistic:
How to swap an E30 Front Subframe


The time has come, you have finally decided to reinforce your E30 front subframe; it’s not as hard as you might think!
Our friends at Salt City Euro’s show you how to get it done with the Garagistic reinforced E30 subframe!
e30-subframe-reinforced-bmw-garagistic
This is one of the most important modifications you should make if you’re driving your car hard or adding more power. The Garagistic reinforced subframe arrives freshly powder coated and includes welded tabs that make the sway bar and engine mounts much stronger. This is necessary to prevent breaking the subframe. This is a stock subframe that was used with a S50 motor. You can purchase  a reinforced subframe over at the Garagistic website.

There are multiple ways to complete this job, which will also depend on the configuration of your car. For example, we have no power steering, but we do have a 24 valve oil pan which prevents us from removing the steering rack on the car, as you could on an E30 with an M20 or M42. We won’t mention the power steering system again. You are on your own with that. Use this as a general guide.

We’re using an engine support bar to suspend the engine properly since we’ll be removing everything that is holding the engine in place. To complete this job you will need the following tools: the jack and jack stands, an engine support bar, a wrench with 13, 16, 17, and 19 mm sockets, and a ball joint removal tool. We also needed a small pry bar. Start by loosening your lug bolts and securing the car on jack stands. We then removed the wheels and loosened the control arm and tie rod end bolts. You’ll need a 19mm socket for the control arm and a 17mm socket for the steering rack tie rod ends. We’re using a basic ball joint tool to remove the ball joints. Before attempting to remove the ball joints, make sure you leave the nut flush with the threads of the ball joint. This will give you a larger surface to work with and protect your threads. Don’t be afraid to apply a lot of pressure, it takes quite a bit to pop those ball joints out.

Next, remove the two 17mm bolts holding the control arm bushings in place. You may have to carefully pry them off the car’s chassis. Remove the lower nuts holding the motor mounts in place. Disconnect your steering shaft from the steering rack. We are showing this on another car so you can clearly see it. Normally the engine would block the view. At this point you can carefully raise your engine to take all the weight off the motor mounts. We also used the jack with a 2×4 for extra safety. Once you’ve loosened and removed the four 17mm bolts holding the subframe in place, carefully lower the subframe. At this point it is time to disassemble your subframe assembly. Remove the steering rack, sway bar, and control arms, then transfer the steering rack to your new subframe.

It’s time to reinstall the e30 subframe on your car. This is much easier with the help of a friend. Align and reinstall your control arms. A small tip: if the ball joint is spinning and does not want to tighten, you can use a jack to press the joint into the knuckle. Reinstall your sway bar and tighten to spec. Finally, remember to tighten and torque your motor mounts to spec.
Congratulations.

You’ve successfully swapped the subframe on your E30. This job is time consuming and may require two people at times. We estimate that it takes 2 to 4 hours to complete depending on skill.

On a scale of 1 to 10, we’d give this job a 5, with 1 being a wheel change and 10 being a full top to bottom engine rebuild.

All Garagistic E30 Front Subframe reinforcements are made in house here in the USA.


Our friends at Salt City Euro’s show you how to get your Garagistic E30 Subframe done!

 

garagistic-e30-bmw-app

apple-garagistic-app-e30-bmw

Project Ares – Pandem (rocket bunney) supercharged LS1 E30

So on to the exterior of the E30 ls1 car we named Ares. Being that the Car will have a supercharged LS1, we wanted this car to be functional. Very functional. No air ride and lots of tire to put down the power with. So we though, we should go widebody! Then we picked the wrong widebody kit……

We picked the Pandem E30 body kit. Why? Because we thought it looked really cool, gave us the ability to run some wide wheel, and there wasnt too many of them around. Little did we know, that this kit is not meant to be functional at all. After getting the kit, we realized, this kit was meant for a car that was going to be parked on air at shows, not put fast lap times down at the track. Every builder who has used this kit on an e30 used it with air suspension for a reason. The wheel arches on this body kit are incredibly high. Meaning cutting the car very very very high. No big deal right?  Ever notice how none of the E30s with the pandem kit have their wheels turned when they are slammed? Yea, thats because they cant turn at that ride height. It would touch the body kit. Thats why the wheels are always straight in the pictures.

So we made a mistake. What were we going to do with this very expensive body kit or the custom wheels made for this car? Cut up the body kit? Not with a price tag that it had.  However, with some serious chasis modification and creative thinking we came up with a solution.

The first thing we had to do was cut the rear wheel arches. Very high. There was no going back now. It was like performing surgury and making sure there was enough “skin” to sow it back togther. We cut the outer skin and left the inner skin to use it to close up the new fender gap.

The front was a little trickier. After realizing that the car wont be able to turn with 9.5 in wheels because it touched EVERYTHING. At the ride height the Pandem kit was expected to “look” right at, it would rub on the inner fender seem. So we cut it out and welded it shut. On turning it touched the wheel well corners (inside cabin). We  had to cut a massive section out to get it to turn lock to lock. On the front the corner of the engine bay had to go for the same reason.

Now being that the car was going to be so low to the ground, we  would also need to make the whole front end removable very quickly. This would make it loading onto the trailer to get to track events/shows/etc a little easier. Its not like we could just air up the car at will. The car has a functional coilover system all the way around compliments of ground control. This includes true rear coilover rear setup like the old DTM cars had. We did mention we picked the wrong body kit right? We will explain how we made the front end removable here.

All LS1 parts can be found at the Garagistic Store.

Project ares – E30 diffuser system and spare wheel well delete

We wanted to experiment with the aero on Ares. So the trunk wheel well had to go. We made a delete panel and removed the spare wheel well because the new diffuser system would then occupy the space that it use to be in.

So we made a delete panel and modified it from our production version by adding a quick release system. This would give us an panel to be able to check on the differential and some rear suspension components when we needed to without needing the remove the diffuser setup.

We want the diffuser system to run most of the length of the car. There would be a cut out for our M coupe diff cover to stick out from so it can do what it does best. Cool the diff.

That meant that the exhaust would need to go somewhere else. We didnt like the idea of a side dump (and we didn’t want to kit our Pandem kit). So we decided to have a similar look to the DTM E30 cars and run it through the trunk. Why not?

It runs through the spare wheel well delete and on either side of where the licence plate would go. It would be tucked away so it couldn’t get damaged and at the same time away from our diffuser setup. We then welded up the stock cutout panel because it would no longer be used.

For all E30 LS1 parts visit us at Garagistic!